In July I made a decision to go to Ukraine. I wanted to visit my dad in Kyiv and check on his health, but I also need to see for myself what life was like for Ukrainians. I also very much hoped to meet some of the people our charity has been helping since the war began. Here is my journey, here are the reasons why I am convinced helping Ukraine is now even more important than ever before.
JFK to Warsaw
I flew out of JFK on the way to Warsaw, Poland. (there are no direct flights to Ukraine at this time). Feels surreal. I have no idea what I am getting into, but feeling resolved.
Poland
I arrived in Warsaw, spent the afternoon seeing the city center, resetting my body, getting ready for the train the next day.
Train Warsaw-Kyiv
Took 6pm direct train Warsaw - Kyiv. It was one of the easiest trips I took inside Ukraine. I also splurged on a private compartment (this trip was paid by me personally, no charity money was spent on my travel expenses). We crossed Polish border around 9pm. We crossed Ukrainian border about an hour later, no issues. 130 tourniquets and Ultrasound machine safely made it through with no questions asked.
Reunited with my Dad
Arrived in Kyiv at noon. First time I see my dad in 4.5 years! (Covid, then war). Amazing feeling. Kyiv was sunny and beautiful, no sirens.
Aug 24 is Ukraine Independence Day
After lunch we went to the city center and got to see the capital of Ukraine celebrating Independence Day. Celebrations were somewhat subdued, but people were on the streets in national vyshyvankas, lots of soldiers in uniform with their families.
Memorial on Maidan
Gruesome reminder of the war. Every flag represents a fallen soldier.
First Sirens
From now on in quotes I will be using what I wrote on social media while in Ukraine with slight abbreviations “Just heard sirens for about 30-45 seconds. Telegram channel advisories came out where the rocket was heading for Kyiv. Kostik don't freak out, I am fine. Another 30 seconds later another report, the rocket was shut down. Most people sleep through this. “
Day 2 in Ukraine
Beautiful day. My anniversary with Kostik, 22 years together. He is in NJ with kids, I am in Kyiv. Ce la vie. This is what I had to do this year. Spent the day with my cousin seeing more of Kyiv, the city where I was born.
Attack on Ukraine
Visiting a Wounded Doctor
More alerts, more sirens, electricity is out, it is really hot. After alerts were lifted, I went to visit a wounded doctor in a hospital. She is undergoing multiple surgeries and rehabilitation after an injury while serving in ZSU. She is a pediatrician, a violinist and also a wonderful graphic artist. She is also on heavy medication and mostly bed ridden. I don’t remember last time I cried so much. Remembering her immediately brings tears to my eyes. Crying now as I write this.
After visiting her I posted “F#ck war. No other words.”
Electricity is Out
Here is what I posted at the end of the day “A couple of sirens overnight, 5 hours of alerts about rockets and drones heading for many different cities, loud booms of rockets hitting Kyiv that sent us running for cover. 3 hours of no electricity in the morning. More than 4 hours of no electricity in the evening in 93 degree heat. Taking a shower with a flashlight. But... after the alert was over, people came out, generators were working, stores were open, life went on. My dad and I listened to the radio while looking at photos of my kids. The reality of war. Just a little hello from Kyiv. “
This is the day I decided to go to Kharkiv. Living through reports of terrible damage all over Ukraine made me even more resolved to help others, to meet those we are committed to help. Not telling anyone. Secretly bought the tickets. Day 4 in Ukraine.
Damaged Buildings
Went for a walk with my dad. We walked for about an hour and on the way home he showed the site of rocket damage 5 minutes away from his house. This is the first time I saw residential building in Kyiv with severe damage. Hard to digest that people live in one part of the long apartment complex while other entrances are still charred. And Kyiv is a relatively safe place to live comparing to other places in the East.
Told my dad that next morning I have a 7am train to Kharkiv. Told him not to worry. I will be back in 24 hours. Dad did not say anything, there is nothing to say. Day 5 in Ukraine.
Train to Kharkiv
I have not been to the gym while I was in Ukraine, I did not practice yoga, but I sure got a lot of weightlifting done. At 630am we were at the Kyiv train station during another siren and alert. Lots of people in the subway which is the official underground shelter in my dad’s neighborhood. Lots of soldiers getting on the train to Kharkiv, heading Northeast. I got to carry my 30 kg (60 pounds each) bags up and down the stairs. I had no idea I could lift 120 lbs!!!! Not for long though. Finally on the train to Kharkiv – wow!!!! Probably the best high-speed train I have ever been on.
Here is the hard part. I am not scared, I am glad I am going, but I also know Kharkiv is a dangerous place. I wrote letters to my daughters in case something happens to me while on the train from Kyiv to Kharkiv. Here is one of them. Natalie is 14.
“Babe!!! Krevetka!! Solnyshko!
Love you so much. So proud of all the beautiful things you are trying and excelling in. So proud of you starting voice lessons!!!!! Can't wait to hear you perform with a microphone!!
I hope you will always choose kindness, breathe deeply and make good choices. Don't let anyone doubt how amazingly special you are. What hidden talents you have!!!! I am so proud of both how well you are doing in school and what a good friend you are to your friends.
You are also an amazing sister!! Be nice to Liza and listen to her. She knows what she is talking about :). And don't give daddy extra grey hair. He is pretty awesome.
You are growing into a beautiful, smart, strong young lady. I am very proud of you!!!
Love you
Miss you
Mom“
Maternity Ward in Kharkiv
Arrived in Kharkiv. 5 hour train was a breeze, although I need more books. I finished what I brought with me. Next 7 hours I spent in Kharkiv were probably the best continuous 7 hours I spent in Ukraine. I was met by the chief doctor of the maternity ward on the platform. Her assistant helped with the bags (I was carrying prenatal vitamins, I really wanted to deliver them in person). After two hours of seeing all the projects we helped with at the maternity ward, I spent half an hour with the staff. THAT was special. These are the people to whom we sent power banks, wrote cards, hoped they are okay. Their brothers, dads and husbands are volunteers in the army. This was unreal and so important. Lots of hugs and crying.
Delivering Tourniquets
In the afternoon I went to visit Yulya Sidorova. She is a medic, serving since 2014. She lost many friends in the war. She saved thousands of people. She is a fashion designer. She is a woman. She is saving her country. She is also a little shy and has a huge heart. “Cuba” is her callsign. “Pelmen’” and some other guys live with her in an undisclosed apartment I got to visit to drop off tourniquets.
Leaving for Kyiv
Did I need to come to Kharkiv? Who knows. I don’t think I had a choice. I was drawn there. I could not justify NOT going there. It was a beautiful and quiet day. The next day it got ferociously bombed. A 14 year old girl was among the killed at a residential building 100 yards away from the café where I ate. Day 6 in Ukraine.
Military Curfew
Are you still reading? I am still crying. All these memories. I am writing more than a month after I came back and all the pain has just come back. More curse words. Back to the story.
At 1am I arrived back in Kyiv. I minimized my time in Kharkiv. I did not want to stay overnight and I was right. But when I arrived in Kyiv I could not take a taxi home or walk, even though my dad’s apartment is 10 minutes away. I had to wait for 5am for the military curfew to be lifted. I spent 4 hours roaming around the train station. Tired people, exhausted soldiers, passed out kids. It truly felt like a war situation.
5am
I walk 10 minutes in the dark to my dad’s apartment. This was scary because I kept thinking that this was not a good idea and I should have taken a taxi.. the area seemed shady. THIS was scary?
Yana - was lawyer now field medic
I am back at the train station to meet Yana. Yana is an awesome lady with whom we shared messages and sometimes calls. She is a lawyer from Kharkiv who volunteered and served in the army for 2,5 years. Yana is smart, well mannered, gentle, a veteran. I could not leave without hugging her. She had a 7am train to Kharkiv on her way back. 10 minutes on the train station was all that we got in our crazy schedules. I am so grateful for those 10 minutes.
Childhood friends
8a-1p SLEEP. FINALLY.
1pm – wake up to reports of bombings in Kharkiv, Poltava, Sumy.
3pm – visit the wounded doctor again. Less crying. I am getting stronger.
7pm – see two amazing childhood friends! We went to elementary school together!! Alexei (Lesha) is a linguist, volunteered, now a drone pilot. Valerie (Lerka) is something very important in the corporate world. I am blessed with great friends! Leshka, you are still an idiot for paying for dinner. Next time I am sneaking away to pay.
Leaving Kyiv
I am leaving Ukraine. I am leaving my dad amid the sirens and the bombings. I am smiling. I am relieved. I am so sick of power outages. I miss air conditioning. I am sad.
Svalyava, Western Ukraine
I got to see small town from which my grandma came from, to visit the grave of my grandparents, to see Lviv. I am a mess.
Lviv
Statue of Neptune covered on Rynok in Lviv, "we will admire the original after the victory"
Arriving in Poland
I have left Lviv, arrived in Poland, saw small part of Krakow, made it to Warsaw. Plane home tomorrow. I am a mess.
Finally got to hug my daughters
9 hour plane home. Feeling guilty. Finally got to hug Natalie and Elizabeth. I love my husband and my daughters. I am a mess emotionally. I am back to teaching yoga tomorrow. I am back to helping Ukraine tomorrow. Concert for Ukraine Sept 21… plus 3 more. The work does not stop. F#uck war. No words.
Thank you so much for sharing your story. I cried as I was reading it imaging my family there in Kiev, my dear cousin ( my little brother ) on the front lines fighting…
I talk to everyone around me about the war. I tell my family and friends in the States, my yoga students, my coworkers, people I meet… We know, remember and hurt because our loved ones are right there in danger every day!
People who don’t hear or see or don’t have any direct connection to the war must be reminded or made aware! In order for Ukraine to win and for this war to end we all must fight it!
Thank you again for everything that you do and for your story!
Glory to Ukraine! Слава Україні 🇺🇦❤️